Not only is she a conceptual, textile talent; she's one of my oldest and dearest friends. Hailing from this bumpkin village where we both pondered in our youth, Nikki began freelance designing from her homemade studio shed and won numerous competitions for global fashion giants such as ASOS and Topshop. Nikki talks to TSL about her fluent designs, inspirational studio sounds and a fall escape to Bali.
TSL: So focusing on the initial concept of Print and Textile design, can you tell us some of your influences and what inspired you to go down this particular route?
NS: One of my main influences is nature and natural formations. WIth the such vast and stunning imagery out there, its hard not to find inspiration in everything. Im a big fan of the Natural Geographic and so when I'm lacking inspiration I find myself on there. From a breathtaking and surreal landscape, to the intricate texture of a rock face or ice glacier, I find images such as these a great catalyst to get ideas flowing. Often such textures, give me ideas for backgrounds for work and so I get the paints (or whatever media is lying around) and start making a mess. i'm also heavily inspired by animals as I'm always so intrigued by the natural kingdom and how animals know what to do instinctually, it's fascinating. Lately i've been looking at animal migration as a source of inspiration, in particular birds. The natural patterns created when they travel are amazing and so I've had fun doing some prints inspired by this. Another key influence for me is travel and culture. Im a very keen traveller and when I studied my degree, I thought it imperative that I had to go somewhere inspiring as a source of inspiration for my final major project. I decided to go to Goa, India, where my mum's side of the family are from. I did so many sketchbooks out there as the research process is never hard when you're constantly inspired by such beauty and foreign traditions and beliefs.
TSL: Tell us about your homemade studio.
NS: Having graduated in 2010 I never thought three years later i'd still be at home with my parents. The decision to setup my own business meant that renting a flat in London wasn't a realistic option and so, very kindly my parents helped me build my very own studio detached from the house in the garden. Its very modest and just the right size for me to do my thing; get messy, throw some paint around make things. I love it and have gradually been able to make it more personal through little DIY projects. I think its important when working for yourself to have your own space so that you can separate work from home as initially It was something I used to really struggle with. Because I freelance for several design studios, having my own space means I've got the room or organise all my different projects and ultimately keeps me focused and inspired.
TSL: What sounds have you been listening to on the late night sessions?
A few tracks I've been listening to in the evening whilst working:
London Grammar - Metal & Dust
iamamiwhoami - Bounty (Album)
Poe- Haunted/Angry Johnny
Young Wonder - To You
Dangermouse/Sparklehorse - Little Girl
First Aid Kit- Lion's Roar (album)
Anna Calvi - Eliza
TSL: Can you name a few designers who have been a significant influence? Who have you collaborated with so far and is there any lined up you would love to work with?
NS: Having been lucky enough to work backstage at London Fashion week for the past 6 years, I've been able see a whole range of designers' collections up close before they're revealed to the public. Seeing designer's prints up close and in detail really got me inspired as a young designer, particularly when digital print became a massive trend and designs became crazier and more complex.I worked as a dresser at several Basso and Brooke shows and it was always a privilege to do so. Their designs had me in awe, their placement prints were always so precise and positioned so cleverly, that the print would compliment the silhouette of the model so well, it never looked too much or too busy. Over the years I've also been a big fan of Indian designer, Manish Arora who's work always blows me away and almost punches me in the face with its intensity of colour and pattern.His love of his home country is always found in his collections and I love how he incorporates it so heavily in this brand; whenever I look at this work I want to go on an Indian adventure.
For me, a designer i'd love to work with is Mara Hoffman, as her bohemian, colourful and travel inspired designs, reflect her brand and her free spirited identity so well. Her prints always have so much energy and excitement to them and her photoshoots always leave me wanting more. She seems like she's being really true to herself through her work and that in itself is inspiring.
TSL: What's been your breakthrough moment so far within the industry?
NS: My main breakthrough isn't so much a breakthrough but more gradual progression (which doesn't sound half as exciting). I think the hardest thing is to keep coming when somedays you feel like giving up and so I'm proud that everyday I give it my best and work the best I can as working alone can be hard. This year has been the first year of my accessories label and I've learnt so much already. Getting on Not On The Highstreet was a really important step for me as it's helped get my work out there and given me a steady platform to help my business grow. My range of accessories is progressively growing, and with Christmas coming up, I will be adding art prints and iPad/kindle cases and some Christmas products to the mix. With the new year, i'd really like to add scarves to the range as I've had lots of request, so fingers crossed it all goes to plan!
TSL: Talking about working on a sole basis, what do you think about House Brands who replicate and have known to tarnish fresh designers work? A lot of Mainland brands have been known to outsource prints, illustrations and overall designs from young, emerging talent and showcasing it as their own innovation.
NS: I think its pretty disgusting when you hear of a big company stealing or identically copying a small businesses' or independent designer's work. In a time when massive companies have so much market power and are major competition for smaller businesses' who cannot compete with them, its awful to think that some companies find it acceptable to steal artwork. I'm not sure how common it is, but I have heard of some cases and think there needs to be more rights for designers to ensure this doesn't happen. I guess the problem is with fashion moving so quickly these days, and with large companies able to bulk manufacturer and process orders efficiently, its too easy for them to find artwork online and take the shortcuts.
TSL: What are your plans for the end of the summer?
NS: Relating to my inspirations, and travel being one of them, i'm off to Bali for 5 weeks at the end of Sept! I plan on doing lots of sketchbooks out there for my next Spring Summer collection. I will also be documenting my time there via my social media pages so keep an eye on them for some inspiring pictures as I will be keeping an eye out for lots of found patterns and gorgeous landscapes.
TSL: And finally, Spring Summer 2014 collections on the rise in a few weeks at London Fashion Week. Any idea of print forecasting? Any new designers to watch out for?
NS: With regards to print trends, having gone to Premiere Vision in Feb and having been looking at lots of trend research I think there will lots more prints focused on escapism and surrealism. Lots of high saturated coloured landscapes and mystical places & inverted florals. I think that hand crafted prints will be making an appearance with inky textures and mark making, going back to basics rather than going completely digital. Cant wait to see what its in store!
TSL
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